Wednesday, June 18, 2025

France 2025 - Day 8 (June 8)

     Happy Pentecost Sunday.  We woke up and decided to attend the Mass at St. Etiene.  It was a 15 minute walk from our hotel to the church.  As we were approaching the church, the bells started to ring to inform the faithful that is was time to get to Mass.  The church was built between 1063 and 1097, during the Romanesque period, under the patronage of the Benedictine abbey of Cluny.  Originally constructed as part of a Benedictine priory, it was designed in the Cluniac style, with rounded arches, massive walls, barrel vaults, and a simple layout.  The church was in need of repairs, but still a beautiful example of what a Catholic Church should look like.









    Nearly every spot in the church was filled and the beginning of the Mass started with a wonderful organ piece.  As they processed up the aisle, it warmed the heart of this Eastern Catholic when the first person in the procession was swinging the incense.  There was a confirmation that took place during the Mass, and we were finished after 90 minutes.  We walked around the church, grabbing a few pictures and made our way to a local coffee shop.  We bought some coffee and pastries, and enjoyed them in the cool morning air.

We walked to a park near the museum we wanted to visit.  After opening for the afternoon, we spent a fair amount of time in the museum which included paintings, ceramics, and other artifacts.  After leaving the museum, we headed over to the Palais Ducal to visit.   The original structure of the palace dates back to the late 15th century, built under the orders of Jean de Clemency, Count of Nevers.  It was constructed on a hill overlooking the Loire River, near the Cathedral of Nevers.  The palace featured a grand central building, flanked by two symmetrical towers, large mullioned windows, and decorative dormers.  One of the most striking features was a spiral staircase in an external turret.  No longer a palace, Ducal is listed as a historical national monument and represents the heritage of Burgundy and the Loire.  














We walked back to our hotel, stopping in a restaurant that served really good hamburgers.  They were the only thing in town open for lunch on Sunday.  We took a little rest period before leaving for a pizza restaurant in town.  The food was really good, and surprisingly inexpensive.    We took a walk through the gardens one more time, before arriving back at the hotel around 815PM.  We have had a busy vacation so far, and we were happy to cut the day short and go to bed early.  Tomorrow was one last train ride, back to Paris.


    

Sunday, June 15, 2025

France 2025 - Day 7 (June 7)

     Today was a transit day for us.  To get to Nevers we had to take the train from Lisieux to Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris. From that station we took the metro 6 stops to Gare Paris Bercy Bourgone.  Once we boarded the train in Paris, it was a two-hour ride to Nevers.  

Leaving Lisieux

The only way to navigate
the Metro

When we arrived in Nevers and exited the train station, we were happy to see that our hotel was right across the street.  After our ground transportation issues in Lisieux, this was a welcome sight.  We got our room key, dropped our bags off in our air-conditioned room, and headed up the hill to the Saint Gildard Convent of the Sisters of Charity of Nevers.  This was the convent where Bernadette Soubirous lived and died after the apparitions in Lourdes.  

The apparitions at Lourdes, France, are among the most famous Marian apparitions in Catholic history. They occurred in 1858, when 14-year-old Bernadette Soubirous, a poor miller’s daughter, experienced a series of visions of the Virgin Mary.

Key Events:

  • First apparition: On February 11, 1858, while gathering firewood near the Grotto of Massabielle, Bernadette saw a “lady dressed in white” who smiled at her but said nothing.

  • Over the next five months, Bernadette reported 18 apparitions in total.

  • During the ninth apparition, the lady instructed her to drink from a spring that miraculously appeared in the grotto.

  • On March 25, the lady revealed her identity as "I am the Immaculate Conception," confirming the dogma proclaimed by the Church in 1854.

  • Many miracles, especially healings, were reported at the spring water.

Aftermath:

  • The Church conducted a thorough investigation and declared the apparitions worthy of belief in 1862.

  • Lourdes became a major pilgrimage site, with millions visiting annually.

  • A large basilica and other shrines have since been built around the grotto.

Lourdes remains a powerful symbol of faith, healing, and the compassion of Mary, particularly for the sick and suffering.  

In the museum on the grounds were some of Bernadette's writings.  I did not take a photo of this one, so I might not have it exactly correct.  When asked why the Blessed Mother would appear to someone as uneducated and ignorant, Bernadette said, "If God could have found someone more ignorant than me, I suppose he would have chosen her instead."  When you read the lives of the Saints, one of the consistent threads between all of them is humility.  Another thread between many of the saints is that they died at a young age.  In Scripture you read, "But the righteous man, though he die early, will be at rest.  For old age is not honored for length of time, nor measured by number of years, but understanding is gray hair for men, and a blameless life is ripe old age.  There was one who pleased God and was loved by him, and while living amongst sinners he was taken up.  He was caught up lest evil change his understanding or guile deceive his soul.  Being perfected in a short time, he fulfilled long years; for his soul was pleasing to the Lord, therefore he took him quickly from the midst of wickedness." Wisdom 4:7-14

I first heard that Scripture in 2016 from my pastor, Fr. Robert Rankin.  I had just told him Theresa was stopping all treatment and entering into hospice.  In the context of that conversation he said, "God gives each of us enough time and years to prepare ourselves.  Some of us need many years, while others need fewer years."  As I looked up the incorrupt body of St. Bernadette, that conversation came to to forefront of my mind.

After the apparitions at Lourdes, St. Bernadette Soubirous chose a life of humility and service far from the public eye. She entered religious life and spent her remaining years in the town of Nevers, France.

Entrance to the Convent:

  • In July 1866, at the age of 22, Bernadette joined the Sisters of Charity of Nevers, a religious order known for caring for the sick and educating the poor.

  • She took the religious name Sister Marie-Bernard.

  • She lived in the convent of Saint-Gildard, where she remained for the rest of her life.

Life in the Convent:

  • Bernadette lived a life of humilityobedience, and suffering. She deliberately stayed out of the spotlight, saying, “My job is to be sick.”

  • She was often ill, suffering from asthmatuberculosis, and a painful bone disease.

  • Despite her suffering, she maintained deep faithkindness, and a sense of humor.

Death and Legacy:

  • St. Bernadette died on April 16, 1879, at the age of 35.

  • Her body was found to be incorrupt during multiple exhumations, a sign of sanctity in Catholic tradition.

  • She was canonized in 1933 by Pope Pius XI.


The incorrupt body of St. Bernadette.  Ora Pro Nobis

You have to love streets named after Saints

L'enfant of Prague

The simple chapel, housing a supernatural wonder

Lourdes Grotto 

Saint Bernadette in the convent she 
never left

Such a peaceful place

The simple habit and shoes of a Saint.  No Prada,
Louis V or other flashy things.

"How many are your works O Lord, In wisdom you
have made them all."

Today, her body rests in a glass reliquary in the chapel at Nevers, where many pilgrims come to honor her. Her life at Nevers is remembered as one of hidden holiness, lived in quiet service and faithful endurance.  After spending some time in the church, we left and walked to the Cathedral, Saint-Cyr et Sainte-Julitte de Nevers.  The cathedral was undergoing some serious renovations, so much of it was not visible to us.  Parts of the cathedral go back to the 6th century, with several key changes taking place of 1,000 years.  The stained glass found in the cathedral were not original to the church.  During World War II, the British RAF bombed the church while trying to take out the railway in Nevers.  While I was not a big fan of the modern stained glass, the light they produced in the early evening was beautiful.

Cathedral of Nevers

Elegant stations of the Cross

Beautiful light through the modern
windows





We talked down to a sidewalk cafe near the banks of the Loire river for food and wine.  We were about an hour too early for dinner, but the chef made some plates for us anyway.  He brought them out, and we talked about Nevers and things to do.  The food was a bit too "posh-posh" for us, but we still scarfed it down.  After finishing the bottle of wine, we walked down by the river and watched the birds trying to fish in the river.  

The Loire is the longest river in France, stretching 625 miles from its source in the Massif Central to the Atlantic.  Major cities along the river are Orleans, Blois, Tours, Angers, Nantes, and of course, Nevers.  The Loire is known as the last wild river in France,  a title that refers to the fact that the river has not been fully dammed, canalized, or artifically straightened. 

Trying to get tips from the local fisherman

"Ain't nobody got time for that"


#nevers

The wild Loire

I loved this part of France

The middle school boy in me can't stop thinking 
it reads "Bra's"

Tonight's dinner?



Just another stroll in the roses


It makes you wonder what this was
used for in the Middle Ages

Leaving the river, we walked through the gardens the lined the Promenade des Remparts and made our way to the hotel for the night, with one detour.  The pish-posh food didn't really satisfy us, so Jennie suggested we stop for wings and beer.  As I said in a Facebook post, make sure you marry a girl who drinks a bottle of wine and wants to stop for wings and beer on the way home.

Wine at 7

Wings at 9. #marryher


 


France - Day 10 (June 10)

      Today was our last full day in Paris.  We were up relatively early as Jennie had booked a 1/2 day trip to Monet's Garden in Givern...